[cblawat21]

Just seeing what you guys believe is a fair percentage of book value to pay for a card. I was always told around 35%

[butterworth1326]

Nobody goes by book value %. Look at what similar cards have recently sold for and go from there. Sometimes you can score deals and sometimes you'll have to pay, all about demand and popularity at that moment.

[bojesphob]

Depends on the card, and how bad you want it really. I've paid over book value for some cards. I've even paid as much as 3-5x BV on some just because I needed it for a rainbow I was working on. But, I've also refused to go over 50% of BV for stuff that I wanted but didn't *need*.

[cblawat21]

well if nobody goes by book value, whats the point of the price guides beckett puts out every month? Isnt that supposed to be what the value of that particular card is at this time?

[jjoy]

I feel like Beckett is really behind on prices. I think the recession really lowered a lot of prices for cards with the exception of a few. I usually score a lot of my cards(Mainly nineties) for 75% less than Beckett book value. I also think a lot of sellers are still asking too much.

[bojesphob]

well if nobody goes by book value, whats the point of the price guides beckett puts out every month? Isnt that supposed to be what the value of that particular card is at this time?

It is exactly what it says: a guide. It gives you an approximate amount that you could sell or pay for it. Typically, if I need one an I know that the BV is 3 bucks and I see one on eBay, I know that I can bid about 6 and be pretty certain that I'll be able to get it. But, if the BV is 15, like in the case of the 2014 Jordy Nelson Prizm Tie Dyed /25 where I haven't seen one available since I've wanted it, I'd be willing to spend above the 15 BV because it's the last one I need for the non-1/1 rainbow for that card. In that case, I know most people would be willing to spend around BV for it, and if I bid 30 for it, I can be pretty certain that I'll get it. Now I could even go up for 40 for it if I feel that there are others that might be bidding on it as well.

[cblawat21]

yeah, i was huge into card collecting back in the 90's and 00's and when i got out of it it seemed like when purchasing a card it would be right around 35% to 50% bv. Ive been out of it so long i dont know what the market is doing anymore. I want to get back into it but dont want to lose my savings for paying more then the market value.

[bojesphob]

First I would say do a lot of research. I've been buying enough Favre, Rodgers, and Nelson cards that I know pretty well what certain cards sell for. If you are looking at a specific card, look for it in the Sold section of eBay. That should give you a feel for what you would expect to pay for it. The set that it comes from will be a determining factor, and also whether it's a card that's needed for sets. For instance, in Immaculate or Five Star, the lower numbered parallels would be worth more than the base as not a lot of people collect the base set. But, Contenders the base autos for the rookies can pull quite a bit compared to the parallels if it's not a star player since there are a LOT of people doing the base sets. Then, if you're collecting current products, those will typically sell for more than the stuff that's been around for several years. I would say see about what you would expect to pay from past sales (or comparable sales), set the max you feel comfortable paying compared to that and base value, and if you get it, great, if not, move on to the next

[butterworth1326]

They have a guide b/c people still buy and subscribe to it. Any popular player is no where near book (high), and every semi star sells well below book. Find any Andrew Luck Rookie Autograph sell for 35% book. Personally guide has nothing to do with price, price derives from market. Supply and demand. Look at RG3 cards 2 years ago, ridiculous. Now, they are a fraction of what they were. Just like stated above, a card is worth what you are willing to spend, some people have different priorities to their collections. If I need a card or it's a 1/1, I'll spend $. If I don't, I'll let it sit and get it when it's a price I'm comfortable with.

[mkufta]

well if nobody goes by book value, whats the point of the price guides beckett puts out every month? Isnt that supposed to be what the value of that particular card is at this time?

From my experience, every card in my small collection was purchased WELL below book value except for 2 cards. 1992 Courtside Sam Gash Auto and 2000 Sage Hit LaVar Arrington Emerald Auto. Both I paid well above BV.

The Gash books for like $2 and I paid $30. I would have paid $70. I know someone came across a stash of them afterwards and they all went for $40ish on eBay yet the guide never ever moved.

Same with the LaVar. I dont know where it books at this point but I was willing to pay $100 and got it for $40 or $50 maybe? I'm pretty sure that's above BV and they always sell for that yet the BV in the guide doesn't move.