[dadams11]

First I know absolutely nothing about baseball cards
Inherited from my wife's late father and starting to organize and see what to do with them
Any guidance would be awesome. I'm doing some research, adding as I go and starting to prowl the forums.
Some info if this will help. I have around 25k-30k as a rough guess. Lots of boxes! We took half lol.
Looks like 1990s give or take a few years but they seem to be in order which is helping.
Doesn't look like they are worth much but I'm happy to do the leg work and see.

We have a bunch of bank cars as well if that of any interest.
Thanks in advance

[kerryandbeth]

I would separate cards with their 1st or 2nd major league year per printing on the back. Then add those to your Organize.

Then separate any special cards that are different from base cards and use the year and card number to list them.

The remaining cards are most likely worth $1 each at the most with the majority at 50 cents or less, and may not be worth the time to enter.

[jmhorn]

If you are interested in collection value, the Online Price Guide (OPG) is a decent investment.  I keep mine active because I am an active collector and want to keep up with changing value(s).  If the total value at a certain point in time is all you need, purchase one month once you have the cards entered in Organize.  That'll get you what you want.  Others will have to comment on Organize features when you don't have an active OPG subscription.

You say the cards are in order.  Are they already separated out by year, manufacturer, set, and card number?  If so, that is great and will make entering into Organize a relatively simple next step.  Here are some definitions that will be helpful if you are completely new to sports cards:

Set Year - The year the set was produced.  This is also the year recognized by Beckett.  The foolproof method of determining this is to look at the year printed (in small print) along the bottom of the back of the card along with copyright information.  Another (easier) method that usually works is to just add one to the last year of statistics listed on the back of the card (you might see statistics for 1988 through 1996 in table format, the set year is likely 1997).
Manufacturer - The company that made the card.  Could be Topps, Donruss, Fleer, Upper Deck, etc.
Set Name - Each manufacturer releases a base set plus (sometimes) several economy or premium sets (brands).  Topps produces their base set, Topps Chrome, Bowman, Bowman Chrome, Heritage, and others.  The other manufacturers do the same but different "brand" names.  Then there are Series 1, Series 2, and Update Series.
Card Number - The number, usually on the top left or right of the back of the card.  Sets typically range from 100 to 400 cards in a series release.  There are exceptions, of course.  A set with a Series 2 will pick up card numbers where Series 1 left off.
Parallel and Insert Cards - Parallel cards are alternate versions of the base card(s), usually a different border color or perhaps a glossy finish.  Insert cards are sub-sets with a completely different design that are randomly inserted in packs (the numbering is separate from base set numbers, sometimes preceded with letters).
Serial Number - Some cards (certain parallel or insert cards) are serial numbered.  These are rare cards and are usually higher value than regular print cards.  The serial number is usually stamped on the front (or back) of the card in a gold/shiny font.  Sometimes the serial number will be hand-written or printed with a small black font.
Autograph Cards - Certified autographs are hand-signed with the manufacturer present and include some type of authentication.
Short Print - Some parallel cards are designated "short print" or "super short print".  These are cards produced with a print run significantly less than normal base cards, but not quite as rare as serial numbered cards.
Rookie Card - The first base card a player appears on.  A player will have a Rookie Card in each of the sets manufactured that year.

There are other terms you will come across, but those are the big ones.

Please ask if you have other, more specific, questions.

Jered

[mmahoney]

If they are from the early 90's there are really only a handful of cards that will be worth much and those would be rookies of mainly Jeter. Other star player cards (HOF'ers like Ryan, Griffey, etc.) if just regular base cards will only be worth a couple bucks each. Any real money would probably be in inserts.

Hard to analyze without seeing. Not sure where you live but would probably be easiest if you could find somebody who knows something. Even with that many cards it wouldn't take someone long to do a quick analysis of what may be worth something.

[dadams11]

I have a subscription right now. Let's me see the prices and enter these into an organizer.
No clue how popular or unpopular this is at the moment but its set to public if any is interested to check them out as I go.
And so far they seem to be in order. Year, Manufacturer, and numerical which is sweet.
I see where the main few that have value come into play. I may hit my limit, but for now I'll try to catalog/organize these. Never know when a good one was just thrown in a box or I just simply don't know the difference.
I did try to reach out to a few local shops about going through them but their advice was to use Beckett lol.
So here we are and you all are great for the info. I really appreciate it

[jpiegaro]

How do I find Topps finest phenoms in the guide. Also can someone describe how to recognize refractors?

[RattPoison2]

Here's what I'd do.
Look for cards of players you know in your mind are future Hall of Famers.
A lot of cards from the 90's are crap, but like someone suggested find the rookie cards.
Another option ask a guy from a local card shop to look 'em over. Split the difference.

[Phillies_Joe]

How do I find Topps finest phenoms in the guide.  Also can someone describe how to recognize refractors?

jpiegaro - from the price guide click baseball category then type in Topps Phenoms.  Better if you know what year/set you are looking for but this will get you started.  Good Luck!