[rad_1205]

I have never been a part of a case break. Im completely lost. I understand its all a gamble, but I don't want to throw dumb money away. If its smarter to just buy singles ill stick to that. But if any one can give me some pointers, sites, etc... How much it will cost. I understand the price will vary depending on team and set that I am apart of. What is to much to spend?

I don't know I see these things all the time and see some sick pulls just trying to get as much bang for my buck as possible.

Thanks in advance for the help

Richard

[DrMitchJ]

Okay, here's the rundown on what I know ...
I have only done a few ... All eBay related ....
You can either do a team break or a player break, or I've seen division breaks, too.
I've seen auctions and flat fees.
I've seen case breaks, half case, multicase, multibox, multiproduct breaks.
Bottom line, before you commit to a price, go and look at the checklist ....
If you're in on a 4 box break of Inception, there aren't too many cards, and if you only have one player represented, you might not want to bid very high. If you're in a 2 Case break of Bowman Chrome and you have the Yankees, you have a lot more odds at a lot more cards so you can bid higher, with increased chance of winning. There are no guarantees, but some guys promise you 3 random cards if you get skunked. To get around some stipulations on eBay, there are index card breaks, pen breaks, candy breaks, etc. you're 'bidding' on an index card. If your team come up, you get those cards shipped for "free, as a bonus' since you already bought the index card

[buckles2335]

I like mojo box breaks and layton box breaks. Both are pretty reasonable.

[mmahoney]

I have participated in about 5 the past few months. To me, it is no different than buying packs/boxes. You have to get a "hit" to make it worth while and that may not get you there. Yes, you will only get the cards for your team but if you don't get a hit, I believe you'd be better off just taking that money and buying the cards you want.

If you do go forward with it, make sure you look at checklist and know what your chances are and pay accordingly. Easy to overpay when the only way you can come close to breaking even is by hitting a fairly big hit. Also, if your player is on a card with others they are usually randomized among the players represented so you may not even get the card. I was just in Bowman Chrome break and a Buxton was Dualing Die Cut was pulled but I lost it in the random draw to the other player on the card. Also had Reds in one where a Joe Morgan Triple Thread relic was pulled with him on front as a Red and back as an Astro. Actually lost that too in random even though I had the Reds.

They are fun to participate in and see what is pulled and hoping for something good for your team but largely a gamble. I think I'm done with them. More fun to open my own box and even if the hit's aren't of my team, I can use them for trade bait.

You do want to make sure they ship "all" cards for your team. Some only will ship hits, not base.

Just my opinion.

[dimarco73]

IMO....it's best to play the odds. The team that has the most cards in the set usually has the best chance of being represented in the break.
Big hits are always random, but I'd rather have the odds in my favor by sticking to the top 4 or 5 teams based on the checklist especially when it comes to high end product.

I also steer away from the sellers that do not include base cards or Olympic/National team cards and only mail out the inserts and parallels. I want everything associated with the team/player I purchased. Make sure you read their description fully, some times the seller throws in a curve to keep as much as they can.