[mthsgrg32]

I have only had two cards graded. Both vintage and in near mint condition. Thought they had a shot at an 8 but both came back 7's. either way, paying for the grading was a profitable choice. Had they come back 8's, it would have been VERY profitable. That is the only reason I would grade is for resale purposes. I'm not a big fan of the bulky holders. The idea of having the card permanently encased "for protection" doesn't make sense to me either. A top loader + a small team back + keeping it out of my daughters reach seems just fine.

If I ever did get heavily into collecting vintage or dropped money on a very expensive vintage card online, I'd definitely buy graded

So the only way your cards is valuable it got to be graded. Example I have some nice cards here now if they not graded they mean nothing.

[richk]

I used a math tool, which is, is the grading cost 15 percent or less of the total card value based on condition.

If a card books for $100, I'd spend $15 on grading. Drill up or down from there. Certain cards such as Mantle regular issue cards 51-69 can be graded regardless.

Rich

[cptnemo66]

So the only way your cards is valuable it got to be graded. Example I have some nice cards here now if they not graded they mean nothing.

No, cards still have a raw/ungraded value. Its not always best to have cards graded. Here are some general guidelines....

Prewar vintage 1948 and older. Almost always pays to have them graded. Even low grade. People are willing to pay more to know the card is real and unaltered. I recomend SGC for this group.

Post war vintage 1948-1979. Really only worth it to grade if you have stars midgrade and up, or high grade commons. Again people like to know a card is real/unaltered. Also the grading companies put out population reports. So cards with low pop numbers can do better also. PSA has a set registry and graded set collectors will pay big bucks for low pop # high grade commons, to say they built the "best" set. Ive seen $15 commons grade 9 sell for $500. So I recommend PSA for this group.

Modern 1980-current. Only grade high end, high grade rookies. Lets face it. There is a ton of modern cards out there, and every one knows to keep them minty. Problems finding these cards years down the road and in nice shape wont be hard. Some of the lower # star cards maybe. But again if you dont think it will come back a 9 or better I would pass. Just too many out there. For this group I recommend BGS or PSA.

[mthsgrg32]

So Ozzie Smith rookie card isn't worth getting graded, is that what you mean? Or Tony Gwynn RC etc

[nolan5000]

Modern 1980

Only one thing needs a correction. Beckett Grading considers 1980 to be vintage. In fact, a card with the year 1980-81 (basketball, hockey) is still considered to be vintage. Anything Pre-1981 is deemed vintage by Beckett Grading Services and is Graded using the BVG (Beckett Vintage Grading) standard.

[bunk27]

No, cards still have a raw/ungraded value. Its not always best to have cards graded. Here are some general guidelines....

Prewar vintage 1948 and older. Almost always pays to have them graded. Even low grade. People are willing to pay more to know the card is real and unaltered. I recomend SGC for this group.

Post war vintage 1948-1979. Really only worth it to grade if you have stars midgrade and up, or high grade commons. Again people like to know a card is real/unaltered. Also the grading companies put out population reports. So cards with low pop numbers can do better also. PSA has a set registry and graded set collectors will pay big bucks for low pop # high grade commons, to say they built the "best" set. Ive seen $15 commons grade 9 sell for $500. So I recommend PSA for this group.

Modern 1980-current. Only grade high end, high grade rookies. Lets face it. There is a ton of modern cards out there, and every one knows to keep them minty. Problems finding these cards years down the road and in nice shape wont be hard. Some of the lower # star cards maybe. But again if you dont think it will come back a 9 or better I would pass. Just too many out there. For this group I recommend BGS or PSA.

+1, this is an excellent post.

[bbcgalaxee]

For me, I stick to cards minimum $15 value and most if the time, they are autos.

[iconms]

So Ozzie Smith rookie card isn't worth getting graded, is that what you mean? Or Tony Gwynn RC etc

Only if they will come back with a pretty high grade or else keep it raw. Wouldn't be worth the cost of doing it.

Excellent post by Cptnemo

[alfredoleal2001]

Only if they will come back with a pretty high grade or else keep it raw. Wouldn't be worth the cost of doing it.

Excellent post by Cptnemo

+1 only if youre sure they will get a high grade or the grading cost will excede the value if say it grades a 5 or 4 and so on.