[nolan5000]

I saw this come up a couple of times as well. What do you mean by "lower numbered cards", and why is it that you choose (or don't get the opportunity) to get them? I have also seen references to "high numbered cards", so what are those? If there is a difference, why do folks choose one or the other?

These are actually 2 different creatures. "lower numbered cards" are referring to cards that are serial #'d out of 1/1 or /5, /10. High numbered cards is referring to the actual card's number. Like Nolan's 1972 Topps for instance. It's #712.

Lower numbered cards are hard to come by in most instances. Take a Nolan Ryan 1/1 for instance. Most people want thousands of dollars for a 1/1 card. I hope that this helps for this question.

More to come.

---

This reply isn't regarding your post, but actually about your image in your signature line. I used to have a card when I was a kid of Nolan Ryan in that fight. What is the card information so that I can start looking for it again? Brand, number, etc...

Nolan Ryan was one of my favorites as a kid. Do you have any particular tips on starting/maintaining a good collection of Nolan Ryan cards?

I didn't do my signature, pyr0punk did. But I don't think that there is a particular name brand card for it. I think that it's basically a high-top card. Some people call them broders. It's not like a Topps or Donruss or Upper Deck. So it wouldn't have a card # or anything like that.

I've collected Nolan since the Summer of 1990. I had a LCS (local card shop) that I frequented a lot. Then in 2001, it was discovered that I had brain cancer (I still have it. They couldn't get all of it, because it got to a point where they couldn't distinguish between tumor tissue and brain tissue. The tumor was actually inoperable, but he said IF he didn't go ahead and operate, that I had about a week left to live. This is because all of my organs had already begun to shut down. He said he truly didn't know how I was still up walking around. Then we told him that I was working 2 jobs.). In 2002 after my 6 month stay in the hospital, thanks to my LCS owner, I discovered Beckett Graded cards.

I have all sorts of Nolan Ryan memorabilia. From posters to pictures to signed pictures to signed balls to coins to Hamilton collectables to Beanie Bears to Steak Sauce to beer to Beckett Graded cards to Beckett Graded Tickets.

Just an aside, the Nolan Ryan beer is the only 6 pack that I ever bought. And all 6 cans are completely full.

[Phillies_Joe]

I saw this come up a couple of times as well. What do you mean by "lower numbered cards", and why is it that you choose (or don't get the opportunity) to get them? I have also seen references to "high numbered cards", so what are those? If there is a difference, why do folks choose one or the other?

---

Lower # cards - 1 of 1's, 1 of 5's, 1 of 10's ect. Oh, I try for them, but you need to remember that I'm not the only one collecting/ trying to collect them, so scarcity makes it impossible to get "every" card. I think the reference to high numbered cards is either (1) same as my "low numbered cards" or (2) in the older sets, because of lower production runs due to timing of release (late summer), the high numbered cards are harder to come by in completeing a set. (if I'm wrong...don't rip me a new one folks! LOL)

[StedmanRecon]

Then in 2001, it was discovered that I had brain cancer (I still have it. They couldn't get all of it

Dang, man. Sorry to hear about your unfortunate situation. It is good to see that you have had the perseverance and resilience to push through all of that this many years. I wish you luck with all of that.

---

Lower # cards - 1 of 1's, 1 of 5's, 1 of 10's ect.

Thanks to you and Nolan for answering that question. Would a card that says "06/25" count as a lower numbered card (2013 Topps Allen & Ginter Mini A&G Back Red)?

Also, I have a couple of those Pink 2013 Topps Update (its either Update or regular) that are numbered to 50. Does that classify as a "lower numbered" card, or would that just fall under "Short Print"? Is there a major difference in either of those terms?

A question I have regarding both of the kinds of cards I mentioned above... If I was wanting to try and collect all 25 or 50:

1- Is buying from "the Bay" (I have seen that in the forums quite a bit, and not sure if it refers to Ebay?) a good idea, or bad?
2- Can you give some tips on purchasing cards from that source? What to look out for and such.
3- Can you name some other online sources of being able to purchase cards that are for sell/auction that a really good and trusted?
4- The closest card shop to me is all the way in Austin. Bout an hour drive one way. Which isn't bad at all, but I don't think I can justify going all the way there just to look at cards unless I know for sure something is there. Can you give me any other tips on how to shop online for specific cards, as well as packs?
5- How does the trading/buying system on here (Beckett) work, really? Is it a good source, and most of the folks trustworthy? What is the procedure (or a link to a forum or help page) that breaks down the whole process of trading or buying a card from another member on here? Any additional tips?

Thanks, ya'll. Especially for putting up with all my rookie questions lol,

[tate31nym]

You might be thinking of this card:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nolan-Ryan-Gold-...3f2ce7797e
It's a promo from something - not an "official" card, and not listed in Beckett. But still kind of neat.

[uvaspina]

Dang, man. Sorry to hear about your unfortunate situation. It is good to see that you have had the perseverance and resilience to push through all of that this many years. I wish you luck with all of that.

---

Thanks to you and Nolan for answering that question. Would a card that says "06/25" count as a lower numbered card (2013 Topps Allen & Ginter Mini A&G Back Red)?

Also, I have a couple of those Pink 2013 Topps Update (its either Update or regular) that are numbered to 50. Does that classify as a "lower numbered" card, or would that just fall under "Short Print"? Is there a major difference in either of those terms?

A question I have regarding both of the kinds of cards I mentioned above... If I was wanting to try and collect all 25 or 50:

1- Is buying from "the Bay" (I have seen that in the forums quite a bit, and not sure if it refers to Ebay?) a good idea, or bad?
2- Can you give some tips on purchasing cards from that source? What to look out for and such.
3- Can you name some other online sources of being able to purchase cards that are for sell/auction that a really good and trusted?
4- The closest card shop to me is all the way in Austin. Bout an hour drive one way. Which isn't bad at all, but I don't think I can justify going all the way there just to look at cards unless I know for sure something is there. Can you give me any other tips on how to shop online for specific cards, as well as packs?
5- How does the trading/buying system on here (Beckett) work, really? Is it a good source, and most of the folks trustworthy? What is the procedure (or a link to a forum or help page) that breaks down the whole process of trading or buying a card from another member on here? Any additional tips?

Thanks, ya'll. Especially for putting up with all my rookie questions lol,

I'll try to answer your questions as best I can. Anything numbered under /25 generally does not have a book value (BV) associated with it because it is so scarce. Usually the OPG will show the value as being "NA." So, yeah, I'd definitely consider a /25 card (especially an A&G) as counting as a lower-numbered card. (Note that there are certain sets where an under /50 aren't so rare, like Triple Threads). I'd say the cut off for most premium "low-numbered" cards is /50.

1. Buying from "the Bay" (E-bay) can be a very good idea. Be sure to check the "completed auctions" to get an idea of the value of the cards you're bidding on. There are a lot of pitfalls to avoid that you'll eventually catch on to.

2. I don't have enough time to list them all here, but feel free to PM me (or maybe I'll update the post later if you're interested). The great advantage of that site is that you can usually find almost anything--especially if you're patient. Some quick advice is to use 40% BV as a general rule of thumb on evaluating most potential purchases. Sure, I've paid 400% BV on some cards and others much, much less. Even so, I will not buy a run-of-the-mill card on ebay if the seller is doing a "but it now" for full BV. If it's an auction (or Best Offer), I usually feel comfortable submitting 30-50% BV and letting it ride (if it's a card I want but don't need).

3. If you're talking about collecting singles, I'd check out the Beckett Marketplace and COMC ("Check Out My Cards"--COMC.com). I've been able to fill a lot of low-end needs through both of these sites--particularly the Marketplace. It's especially useful if you're beginning a collection and want to pick up a lot of low-end needs. The prices on the higher-end stuff gets crazy.

If you're buying boxes, there's a ton of online companies like Dave and Adams, Blowout Cards, etc. (I don't buy a lot of boxes so I'm not very knowledgeable on which is best). I will suggest to you, however, not to buy boxes from Ebay. That's where sellers unload the remainder of their case after they open the box that contains the case hit. There's tons of other unscrupulous stuff too...

4. As I mentioned, check out the sites like DA Cards and Bowout to get boxes/packs. Be on the lookout for clearance specials. Other than that, even though you might not have a Local Cards Shop (LCS) near you, try to find out if there are any card shows in your area. Just do a google search or check out the Beckett directory.

5. There is a link at the top of the trading forum that will give you pointers on trading here. I'm not a Beckett shill, but I will say that this place is known for being a great trading forum and I'll attest to that. In my experience, I've done about 200 trades on here and only had 2 that I would consider "bad." Here's the basics: In order to trade here, you need to upload your cards into the Organize (Org) and mark which ones you want to trade. Then you either post in the forums and wait for people to initiate trades with you, or you just "start trades" with others by clicking on their profile. The whole process is pretty easy. Keep in mind that until you get about 20 trades under your belt you'll be expected to ship first. This is pretty standard stuff so don't be surprised or suspicious if you're asked to ship first. Always make sure to do delivery confirmation (through USPS/paypal). Always ship your cards securely by using bubble mailers/toploaders. When you're starting out, only trade with established members who are active on the boards. If you see a guy who's been a member, has posted regularly, has a lot of good trades under his belt for a long period of time, you have nothing to worry about. Keep in mind that no traders are going to accept a trade offer of 50 $1 cards for 1 $50 auto so don't even ask. For that matter, most traders won't accept a trade of 2 $25 cards for 1 $50 card. It never hurts to ask, but you'll catch on real quick to what's acceptable and what's not. Almost everyone on here marks their ungraded cards as "8s" for trading purposes. --In other words, you're probably going to strike out in the trading department if you are marking all your cards as being gem mint "10s." (The BV is obviously higher for 10s).