Maybe someone can help me... Is their a time when you don't grade a card, at the same time grade another. In other words how do you know when to grade and when its not needed
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Grading of Cards
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I don't think there are really any specific times you should have a card graded. If it's an overall nice looking card of a player that is worth the grading charge then have em graded. Super rare stuff #10 and under sometimes is not worth having graded if it's not a gem mint card. But if the card is from a great player and you can't see any flaws on it then grade it.
Thank you, the reason I asked is I have 2 2011 bowman chrome autograph cards they aren't the /500 but they seem to have a value of anywhere from $350.00 to $500.00 but yet I don't see them graded. I also have the green, purple, and regular chrome in both white and dark uniform among others. I had a good year (2011) but don't have any graded. So thank you may have to do some anyway
DON'T
anything really low #ed anything you think will grade less than a 9 (unless it's PC, you can always just have um authenticate it) DO RCs Chromes (tend to grade well if the surface is nice) Vintage (cards where the difference between a 4 and a 5 are significant dollars) Hope this helped! 11-12 UD Hockey w/ YGs: 438/500 (88%) DO NOT TRADE LIST: chargers2427, mrmagnum75 (05-07-2013, 01:47 PM)swjrp10 Wrote: DON'Tyes it did thanks!!! just one thing, why no really low numbered
I think the reason some people choose not to grade low-numbered cards is because there's already a built-in resale market for them based on scarcity. So, at least in theory, if there are only 10 of a certain card out there, getting it graded won't necessarily increase the book, trade or resale value.
Personally, and I haven't had this problem much at all, I like getting rare cards graded. Not because it helps the value, but because the cases give me piece of mind that I won't damage them as easily. |
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