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Real or Reprint?
12-23-2012, 08:15 PM
Post: #1
Real or Reprint?
As mentioned in another question posted by me on here I found a `49 Bowman Jackie Robinson RC. It isn't in the greatest shape but I think I have worked up a fair price to pay. My only concern is if the card is authentic. It certainly appears to be but I'm no expert and I'm sure that the counterfeiters have thought of just about everything these days. Are there any tell-tale signs to look for that may lead me to a conclusion of it's authenticity? I don't want to pull the trigger on it, then send it off for grading to just be let down. Thanks in advance to all respondents!

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12-23-2012, 10:37 PM
Post: #2
RE: Real or Reprint?
I am not an expert either, but the sure way to know if it is authentic is if it is already graded and slabbed. A lot of members on the boards won't go near vintage unless it is already graded.

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12-23-2012, 11:26 PM
Post: #3
RE: Real or Reprint?
(12-23-2012 10:37 PM)rmpaq5 Wrote:  I am not an expert either, but the sure way to know if it is authentic is if it is already graded and slabbed. A lot of members on the boards won't go near vintage unless it is already graded.

Yeah I understand that, the problem is that the card is at a pawn shop and priced relatively well for the grade I've given it. To have them send it, as if they would even do it, would then open the possibility of a much higher asking price.

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12-24-2012, 03:04 PM
Post: #4
RE: Real or Reprint?
http://www.blowoutcards.com/forums/ebay-...k-out.html

I would have to be sure....
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12-26-2012, 11:01 PM
Post: #5
RE: Real or Reprint?
(12-24-2012 03:04 PM)dustin12368 Wrote:  http://www.blowoutcards.com/forums/ebay-...k-out.html

I would have to be sure....

Very interesting, thank you! I guess my next move will be to ask the Pawn Shop to have it graded and authenticated as a requirement of purchase. I think if we agreed upon a price and I payed before the card was sent off then they should have no issues with it. That way it would guarantee the purchase for them. On the other hand to protect me, if the card were to return as a counterfeit then my money would be refunded. Downside is they're a pawn shop and have little to no knowledge about this stuff so getting everything in order and in writing would be the difficult part. Thanks again, that was extremely helpful!

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12-29-2012, 07:48 AM
Post: #6
RE: Real or Reprint?
If you had a common card to compare it with would help and magnification.
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12-29-2012, 09:41 AM (This post was last modified: 12-29-2012 09:43 AM by pawpawdiv9.)
Post: #7
RE: Real or Reprint?
A bit of info here:
If i remember, 1948 the copyright year was by itself at the bottom. In 1949 the copyright year was in the middle of the last sentence (at the bottom)

Defintely get it graded. Prefer SGC tho on older cards and looks nicer.
But a 2.5 could go as much as 400. So yes, GET IT GRADED!

Take some pics of this, maybe we can evaluate it from there.
Front and Back sides.

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01-02-2013, 10:09 AM
Post: #8
RE: Real or Reprint?
This should be helpful in your examination....this is a great collection of information on how to examine vintage and pre-war baseball cards. Lots of information on what to look for, and would probably be able to answer most of your questions.

http://www.cycleback.com/baseballcards/

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01-03-2013, 11:50 AM
Post: #9
RE: Real or Reprint?
(12-29-2012 07:48 AM)dustin12368 Wrote:  If you had a common card to compare it with would help and magnification.

Agreed, a magnified comparison is a great way to match the printing characteristics, which usually can't be duplicated in a fake. An inexpensive 10x loupe has kept me from investing in flawed, doctored, and even a few fake cards while also identifying the sharper ones worth grading.

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01-08-2013, 12:15 PM
Post: #10
RE: Real or Reprint?
Great info guys. Thanks to all respondents. I spoke with the Pawn Shop manager, somehow I got him to agree to have it graded for an additional $25 plus the cost of getting it graded. He tried to get me to pay prior to him sending it off but I elected to not do that in the event the card is fake. So basically if the card comes back as a 2 or better then I have agreed to pay $225+tax+grading charge. I feel like I can do better on the price though, so I'll have to work my magic there. If the card comes back as real but lower than a 2 grade then I'll try to haggle a price somewhere around $100-125 flat.

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