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Marking The Condition of Your Cards . . .
#1

Marking The Condition of Your Cards . . .
Is it just me or should you really just mark your cards as Near Mint/Mint (8) unless they are graded? Would like to hear your thoughts either way and why you feel that way.

Looking to close out my 2012 Update Series. All needs are marked Trade For and Want. Thanks!
PC Card Totals:

Manny Machado - 395
Jonathan Schoop - 223
Chance Sisco - 11

Always looking for more of these guys! Let's trade!
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#2

RE: Marking The Condition of Your Cards . . .
I would say condition really doesn't matter. That said. Both parties should have the same settings to make value equal. If a card has damage or is oc or what not traders need to communicate. I generally don't trade for graded but if a card happened to be graded that I wanted I would hope the other trade would make that known
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#3

RE: Marking The Condition of Your Cards . . .
8 is kinda the unwritten rule. It is easy for my because it is becketts default grade. I like it because it creates a level playing field and people can't bloat the value of their cards. Now if it is obviously below an 8 and not graded I think people should use their best judgment and grade accordingly.
(03-22-2014, 11:11 AM)yankees_pride Wrote: I would say condition really doesn't matter. That said. Both parties should have the same settings to make value equal. If a card has damage or is oc or what not traders need to communicate. I generally don't trade for graded but if a card happened to be graded that I wanted I would hope the other trade would make that known
Yeah anytime I trade a graded card I let the trader know and I also let them know the grader. When I first got into the hobby I didn't know better and bought a bunch of BCCG stuff. So when I trade it I make sure they know it isn't BGS and offer scans if they want
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Sets
2013 Bowman Inception Base Auto - 56/62 -90.3%
2011 Topps Cognac Diamond Anniversary(Series 1 & 2) - 383/709 -54%
2011 Topps Diamond Anniversary (Series 1 & 2) - 371/709 -52.3%
2014 Topps 1989 Die Cuts - 119/150 - 79.3%
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#4

RE: Marking The Condition of Your Cards . . .
(03-22-2014, 11:11 AM)yankees_pride Wrote: I would say condition really doesn't matter. That said. Both parties should have the same settings to make value equal. If a card has damage or is oc or what not traders need to communicate. I generally don't trade for graded but if a card happened to be graded that I wanted I would hope the other trade would make that known
Yeah, the BV thing bothers me if it's not the same and most people seem to mark their cards at an 8 which I think is reasonable. I think that's why marking them an 8 gives you a little wiggle room in both BV and condition. To clarify, the wiggle room where something VERY minor might not bother you, but be an issue for someone else. Thanks for sharing!
PC Card Totals:

Manny Machado - 395
Jonathan Schoop - 223
Chance Sisco - 11

Always looking for more of these guys! Let's trade!
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#5

RE: Marking The Condition of Your Cards . . .
I don't think cards should be listed as "mint" unless they are graded. I agree with Brian that everyone should have them at 8 unless graded so that everyones cards are the same. Now obviously condition of older cards comes into play as well. I, myself, am not very good at judging the grade of older cards (50s-60s). And if there is any kind of disagreement, we are all adults here and should be able to come to a happy medium. Smile
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Bucket: http://s863.photobucket.com/user/uncfan011/library/?sort=3&page=1

Also, if a card isn't graded then please do not list it as "mint" to bump the trade value. I trade nrmt-mt unless graded. Sorry
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#6

RE: Marking The Condition of Your Cards . . .
(03-22-2014, 01:21 PM)accfan01 Wrote: I don't think cards should be listed as "mint" unless they are graded. I agree with Brian that everyone should have them at 8 unless graded so that everyones cards are the same. Now obviously condition of older cards comes into play as well. I, myself, am not very good at judging the grade of older cards (50s-60s). And if there is any kind of disagreement, we are all adults here and should be able to come to a happy medium. Smile

+1
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Thanks jbel4331 for the sick sig!

Sets:
2013 Gypsy queen framed mini relics 47/74
2013 Gypsy queen base and regular mini sets.

PC Players:
Nolan Ryan
Evan Gattis
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#7

RE: Marking The Condition of Your Cards . . .
I completely agree with only marking above the 8 if the card is graded. Like stated before, it levels the playing field and people know what they're getting. It aleviates a lot of scrutiny if you don't mark an ungraded card as mint.
Top Wants:

1. 2001 Bowman's Best- Albert Pujols
2. 2011 Bowman Sterling- Mike Trout
3. 2011 Bowman Chrome- Paul Goldschmidt

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#8

RE: Marking The Condition of Your Cards . . .
The default is 8 and unless graded or if your an older member and don't have the time(or remember) to mark down cards when it was defaulted to a 9, I would rate accordingly. Also, at the time of trading when I pull the cards before marking accept, I make sure they are true to fit as best as I can. I have downgraded in the past cards that were 8 which I saw either surface wear, centering or even a corner ding down. It happens.
Looking to complete the 2013 Archives Mets fan favorite Au's (Just need Ron Darling) and 2014 Topps Gypsy Queen set mini base + SPs. Also working on 2015 Topps Chrome and updates. Please note that if you have less than 15 trades, I ask that you send first.
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#9

RE: Marking The Condition of Your Cards . . .
For anything prior to 1980 in the database 7 becomes the Beckett High Standard not 8. My experiences have been that with vintage if their have been any issues prior to shipping my trading partner has almost always alerted me to it, and I try my best to do the same. None of us are prof. graders so I don't really care that much unless it is ripped or folded in half. I mean if you are including a vintage in the trade they are 30-60 years old, some wear and tear is expected! If it showed up without surface wear, round corners, and some fuzzy sides I think I would be suspicious Smile. While I agree that anything marked higher than a 8 should be graded, I have had a few trades go through where one of my cards was mistakenly marked as 9, when you duplicate a card the duplicate comes out as a 9, not an 8 like the original. There are no doubt cards in my ORG right now marked a 9 that should not be because of this Happens occasionaly. Just something to pay attention to.
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Building Base sets and Collecting All Tigers
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