[khalz75]

Hi, I had a few questions basically on collecting in general as I am newer to all of this. First question is rather stupid but I just want to make sure I know what I am looking for.

There are two value columns in Beckett next to each card, left is lower and the right is higher. What exactly is the difference. I have an idea that the right one is for cards that are in mint and the left are for not in that great of condition? I tried to find this info in the magazine but maybe I missed it because I didn't see it anywhere.

Grading Questions.. I have never had a card graded, if it is graded with an overall good grade, might that make the value any higher than what is listed in the magazine? (I assume it depends on the card itself too)

What is the process of grading? I send it out, they grade it and put it in a nice card holder, and send it back?

Is there anything to worry about such as the card getting lost or not being sent back?

For football cards, is one grading service better than another or more reputable? Many years back, I bought a '92 Favre RC off Ebay and it was graded "10" by Gem Elite. I recently read that Gem is a scam company which was disappointing to read!

Is it worth it to have a base autograph card graded or anything special in grading these autos I need to know?

Just any tips would be helpful and I thank you in advance! I plan to get my collection the best possible values it can, lock them up and leave them to my son one day so maybe he too can pass them down or save them for a rainy day and hard times. Thanks again and I really look forward to your replies!

Most of my cards that I want graded are autos. Some are just nice base cards that I collected as a kid, and some are my newer pulls. If at all interested, here is the link to my cards on photobucket. Thanks again!!

[Zebra_steroid_mussels]

Not here to help but I would also like to know the answers to these questions. Good thread.

[maddmaxx714]

you are correct on the value part. the best grading companies are Beckett and PSA.

[gjhobbs]

Hi, I had a few questions basically on collecting in general as I am newer to all of this. First question is rather stupid but I just want to make sure I know what I am looking for.

There are two value columns in Beckett next to each card, left is lower and the right is higher. What exactly is the difference. I have an idea that the right one is for cards that are in mint and the left are for not in that great of condition? I tried to find this info in the magazine but maybe I missed it because I didn't see it anywhere.

Grading Questions.. I have never had a card graded, if it is graded with an overall good grade, might that make the value any higher than what is listed in the magazine? (I assume it depends on the card itself too)

What is the process of grading? I send it out, they grade it and put it in a nice card holder, and send it back?

Is there anything to worry about such as the card getting lost or not being sent back?

For football cards, is one grading service better than another or more reputable? Many years back, I bought a '92 Favre RC off Ebay and it was graded "10" by Gem Elite. I recently read that Gem is a scam company which was disappointing to read!

Is it worth it to have a base autograph card graded or anything special in grading these autos I need to know?

Just any tips would be helpful and I thank you in advance! I plan to get my collection the best possible values it can, lock them up and leave them to my son one day so maybe he too can pass them down or save them for a rainy day and hard times. Thanks again and I really look forward to your replies!

Most of my cards that I want graded are autos. Some are just nice base cards that I collected as a kid, and some are my newer pulls. If at all interested, here is the link to my cards on photobucket. Thanks again!!

When you say “There are two value columns in Beckett next to each card, left is lower and the right is higher”, I assume you mean when you click on a card and it takes you to the information about that card. If it looks like the photo below, that is the market value of the card from worst grade to best grade in raw form (raw being ungraded)

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If you get a card graded, depending upon the player, year of card, etc the grade can definitely affect it. A rookie card of Joe Montana graded for example can bring in good money, plenty more than an ungraded card.

The process of grading is just as you questioned, but there is a little more than that. You can choose different time frames, type of grading you want, etc. That is better explained in the “grading” tab at the top of the forum page.

I’ve heard of some cards being lost, but get insurance and Beckett is usually good about taking care of these issues.

The only places that I’d use for grading are Beckett or PSA. It depends upon the card and the company honestly, but avoid the other ones from what I’ve been told as yes they are basically a company that will grade anything to my understanding.

Have whatever you’d like graded sent in honestly. I have some rookie cards that I’m wanting to get graded of Marshawn Lynch and other players, but if there is also a player that I collect that I’d like to get graded for future purposes, I’d do it as well.
It’s too hard to tell what players are going to be star athletes or have their career cut short for whatever reason, so collect players/teams you like and enjoy the hobby.

In regards to getting certain auto cards graded, usually on card autos are better than sticker-card autos since they are better signed and the sticker can have issues from what I’ve read.
Other members will give more info on that, but this is the best of what I know from my short time here.

It can be costly and addicting. Lots of other members here can tell you that as well.

Good Luck and have fun!

[khalz75]

Thank you, was very helpful! I want to send out this RG3 Magic I have as well as a Blackmon '12 1984. Both autos, Blackmon signed on the card, the RG3 is a sticker. A few others, but would love to get my Marino RC graded, but the corners look 'soft' and not sharp so I don't know if it would be worth it or not. Your answer was awesome and thank you so much! One thing I wasn't clear on I am sorry... Lets say the high value on a card states that it is $100 in Beckett. Will getting a grade of lets say 9 or higher just confirm that value or will it actually make the card hold more value than what it says in Beckett? Thanks again and have a great weekend!

[khalz75]

Also, do the grading companies put the card in the nice hard case, or is that something I have to send in along with it? When I collected as a kid, I put a few of my cards in the screw down holders. Should I take them out and put them in a regular toploader ? thanks again!

[gjhobbs]

send the cards in regular penny sleeves and top loaders. Whatever you send to Beckett you wouldnt get back, as they "slab" them in the nice holders you see.

If the card in "raw" form is worth say $100 in NM-MT condition (which is about an 8.5-9), the true Beckett grade will make it usually worth more, but it could also make it worth less. It's always a gamble, but if the graded version is still worth more in graded 8.0 form vs "raw" NM-MT, it's worth getting graded.

Just depends upon the card, and player.

Marino RC's should hold better value in graded form vs raw form.

[branesergen]

First off I will revisit this thread in a bit when im off my phone to give you a little more info. But for now the value in Beckett is low/hi - that is considered "book value" low side is low price in the market and hi is hi price in the market. If you see 8-12 the card sells for between 8 and 12 and has nothing to do with raw condition.

[englandhousehold]

Here is grading process info - http://www.beckett.com/forums/thread-1524015.html

[branesergen]

If you look at the screen shot of the Beckett OPG that GJHobbs posted you can see where he circled the $8-$20 - That is the cards value in NM-MT form Also known as a raw 8. The "Conditional Value" to the right is listed for the raw condition above and below a raw 8. The 8.5 raw is $20 and the 9 raw is $25. And to the right of that you see "Graded Pricing" and under it "No graded pricing is available for this item" - That is where you would see the graded book value for graded cards. That particular card doesnt have too many graded cards to generate a market value. If you look up your Dan Marino rookie card you will see the difference grading makes. Hopefully that clears u book values for you.

As for grading - BGS/BVG, PSA and SCG are the top 3 and only 3 in my opinion. Everything else is a waste of money and time as they do not cross over well with the top 3. Meaning your 10 is probably a BGS 6 or 7. Not worth it. I personally love grading. It does add value on cards and also, the best part, it protects them. Like someone said the grading tab at the top will help you with grading. If you are doing this to pass down to your kids I would advise grading more valuable cards to start out as anything can happen that makes a hot player today a forgotten memory tomorrow.