The easiest way to tell the counterfeits is, the arrow up on the right beside the yellow box were it says "premier" will be a darker, almost gold color, compared to the yellow, if they both look the same color, then it is more than likely fake.
Also take a loupe or magnifying glass and look at the dark areas, if it is sold black, it's fake, if you can see faint dots of blue, green, yellow, red, etc..., it's genuine.
Also, when using the loupe or magnifying class, you will see like pin point dots, if it looks like solid layer it's fake,
From the scan you have of the Malone, that card is genuine and not counterfeit, as the arrow is a darker gold color than the yellow circle.
this link will show the differences between a genuine and a counterfeit Jordan
http://bbcemporium.com/1986-fleer-michea...eit-guide/
Here is the next 4 best cards in the bunch. Ignore the specs, this guy keeps these in his shed with saw dust all over the place...
First the Dr J up close. You can see some whiteness on the right edge in the blue. Also the rear centering is a little low.
Here is the good Ewing. Centering is slightly to the right, and bottom corners showing white slightly.
Here is the Barkley. Gorgeous looking, except for rear centering.
Here is Drexler up close. Besides front and back centering, the bottom right corner is a bit soft.
These cards, with the Malone, probably make up a significant portion of the value, along with the 40+ high quality commons. I've got some more pics to post, but I've got to run to a holiday party for now.
In my opinion, I don't see any of those star cards getting higher than 9.0's and some of them may not even get 9.0. The Erving centering may be enough to bring it down to an 8.5 overall, the Ewing is no better than a 9.0 because of the corner issue, and the centering on the Barkley and Drexler cards is likely enough to drop the card to a max of a 9.0. BGS is a pretty strict service in that just one category can bring down the entire card. If you get an 8.0 on centering on any of the cards you are going to be screwed because no matter how good the corners, edges or surface are you will probably top out at an 8.5.
You are always taking some risk when it comes to ungraded cards because it really is a crapshoot between getting a high 8.5 or a low 9.0 or a high 9.0 or low 9.5 grade. And the differences in value between each of those 0.5 grades can be pretty big. Judging by the scans, I would guess that comparable ungraded cards of these stars would be in this range:
Erving-no more than $10-15
Barkley-somewhere between $20-35
Ewing-around $15-25
Drexler-between $15-25
the Karl Malone (even though it looks very good) would probably top off around $35 ungraded.
If most of the common cards are NrMt-Mt or better than I could see going around $1/common.
These are just my opinions. But I think that if you base your offer around these prices it will be more than a fair offer for your buyer considering you are purchasing such a large, ungraded lot. Honestly, if you are looking to build a set you can find very comparable quality in condition on Ebay so don't overpay for this one, make a fair offer and have and stick to a ceiling that you won't go over if you're negotiating. You will have plenty of chances to buy this type of lot (maybe smaller) on Ebay for very reasonable prices.
At first glance, the Jay Humphries looks like it would have a good chance at a 9.5. Too bad the Johnny Moore on the left has surface issues because otherwise it looks like a solid 9.0 and maybe higher. In my opinion these cards do look to be in solid NrMt and NrMt-Mt condition and if you are keeping for personal collection they are nice looking cards.
If you are looking at it as an investment or for grading purposes, most of the stars pictured in the latest group would have a hard time getting higher than 8.0 or 8.5 based on the centering and corners/edge issues that appear in the scans. And the previous group of better conditioned stars would likely range from 8.0 up to 9.0. Any card hoping for a 9.5 would at least have to look like the Jay Humphries does in terms of centering, edges and corners (hard to tell surface issues in scans). The main problem you're running into is centering, which is very common for this set and a problem I have unfortunately run into in grading submissions in the past.
Based on the pictures, I would stick with the values I gave in my last post as a general guideline for an offer. Those prices are what I think you could buy the same cards for individually (except for commons which are usually sold in lots and not individually and are based on average card price within a larger lot) off of Ebay. Just my opinions though. Hope it helps and good luck with your collection.
Its certainly a nice looking lot but I wouldn't break the bank on an offer. If you are looking for a BGS 9 or higher set I honestly don't think many of the big stars/RCs posted are going to get you those grades. I think you ahve a lot of 8's and 8.5s there. Nice cards but you may be better off picking up 8.5s graded if thats the grade you want, save on the fees and often times get a pretty sweet deal.
If it helps, I have my set with most stars in 8.5 holders I can scan for a reference.
Ok, I know this is way late, but I've been busy adding to my PC. I took the plunge on this purchase, and just wanted to share scans of some of my favorite cards in the lot.
First, the stars:
And here are 3 commons that I think are easily 9.5s:
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With the cards I bought, I was able to make almost 2 full sets, with about 100 duplicates of some commons on top of that.
