Beckett Message Boards

You're currently viewing a stripped down version of our content. View the full version with proper formatting.
So, for the fellow members who are active, you know I have decided to chase a RC and a Auto/Jsy of every HOFer. I have made quite a few trades lately for either RCs ot Auto/Jsy cards and I need your opinion on grading.

Let me set up a scenario. Recently, I traded for and will be receiving a Len Dawson Auto/Jsy. To reach my goal I only need a RC now.

There's plenty on the bay graded by PSA which from my recent reading seems it could be either (1) shady, or (2) more lenient than BGS. Anyway, I am trying to come up with the minimum grade number I should include in the goal.

Now maybe this is year sensitive. For example, I am thinking a 7 is probably a good goal for stuff from the 50s, 60s, and 70s. It will make this dream collection much more realistic to get decent quality and affordable.

For newer stuff 80s, 90s, prospective inductees I am shooting for 9.

What are your thoughts. I have no experience with grading and I am just trying to wrap my mind around a strategy on how I want work on this and what I should be keeping an eye out for.

Any input would be much appreciated.

Thanks, Leo
My 2 cents: If you can get a 7 reasonably priced for pre-80's cards, I think you're doing very well. A 7 is still a NM card. People are way too tough in terms of expecting 9's on everything now days. I am doing a similar, albeit less aggressive, collection right now, working on securing either an auto or RC of the top 100 players of all time. For some (e.g., Namath, J. Thorpe, Nagurski, Unitas, etc.) a RC 7 would be amazing, but also a fortune. I did secure a 1948 Bowman Sammy Baugh RC graded 7.5 by BVG (only one graded higher at 8).

In my humble opinion, BVG/BGS is (far and away) the best/toughest grade.

Good luck.
(07-21-2011 01:33 AM)bgraff Wrote: [ -> ]My 2 cents: If you can get a 7 reasonably priced for pre-80's cards, I think you're doing very well. A 7 is still a NM card. People are way too tough in terms of expecting 9's on everything now days. I am doing a similar, albeit less aggressive, collection right now, working on securing either an auto or RC of the top 100 players of all time. For some (e.g., Namath, J. Thorpe, Nagurski, Unitas, etc.) a RC 7 would be amazing, but also a fortune. I did secure a 1948 Bowman Sammy Baugh RC graded 7.5 by BVG (only one graded higher at 8).

In my humble opinion, BVG/BGS is (far and away) the best/toughest grade.

Good luck.

Thanks for the input. So I should try for BVG/BGS over the PSA? I am trying to balance the fun and hunt of this collection with affordability as well. I don't want to just go after whatever I can, I mean I do want the value, so should I should for less than a 7? Or should I say a goal of PSA 7 or BVG/BGS 6 or better? Again, I have no experience with graded cards and just need a feel for a starting point.
Great Question Leo, Thank you!

So let me see if I can shed a little light on this for you.

Cards from 1954 to 1979 are priced in NM condition in the OPG and the Price Guides, so if you can pick up a Dawson Rc in a 7 or higher your doing great because a 7 in BGS is NM

The condition pricing goes like this

1935 Ex
1948 to 1953 EX-MT
1954 to 1979 NM
1980 NM-MT
1981-2011 MT With the exception of the 1985 Topps which is condition sensitive.

Those are the condition guidelines I use when I am looking to buy or trade for graded cards, it has to be in the condition priced in the OPG for that year or better

As for grading of vintage cards, SGC, usually has a tougher grading standard than the other grading services, and BGS is usually tougher than BVG, so if I were to purchase a graded one, I would prefer an SGC or a BGS compared to PSA or BVG.

As for PSA, their cases are really easy to crack, so it is easy for people to crack the case, and replace the card that was graded for either a counterfeit one or one of a lesser grade.
(07-21-2011 07:22 AM)shezdoni Wrote: [ -> ]Great Question Leo, Thank you!

So let me see if I can shed a little light on this for you.

Cards from 1954 to 1979 are priced in NM condition in the OPG and the Price Guides, so if you can pick up a Dawson Rc in a 7 or higher your doing great because a 7 in BGS is NM

The condition pricing goes like this

1935 Ex
1948 to 1953 EX-MT
1954 to 1979 NM
1980 NM-MT
1981-2011 MT With the exception of the 1985 Topps which is condition sensitive.

Those are the condition guidelines I use when I am looking to buy or trade for graded cards, it has to be in the condition priced in the OPG for that year or better

As for grading of vintage cards, SGC, usually has a tougher grading standard than the other grading services, and BGS is usually tougher than BVG, so if I were to purchase a graded one, I would prefer an SGC or a BGS compared to PSA or BVG.

As for PSA, their cases are really easy to crack, so it is easy for people to crack the case, and replace the card that was graded for either a counterfeit one or one of a lesser grade.

Thanks for this very insightful information. So based on your scale the 1989 Bruce Smith I just picked up thats BGS 8.5 is ok for now, but I really should be shooting for trading or buying up to 9.5 at some point.
Sorry to be a bit off topic, but I am considering taking a few cards to be graded at the national next month and have never gotten cards graded before. Is there a general rule of thumb that should be followed regarding what cards are worth getting graded? My intention is to just get a handful of my PC cards graded, but like I said, it's all new to me. Any help/info appreciated, thanks.
(07-21-2011 09:08 AM)quobbinnobbin Wrote: [ -> ]Sorry to be a bit off topic, but I am considering taking a few cards to be graded at the national next month and have never gotten cards graded before. Is there a general rule of thumb that should be followed regarding what cards are worth getting graded? My intention is to just get a handful of my PC cards graded, but like I said, it's all new to me. Any help/info appreciated, thanks.

Thanks for bringing this up. I live in Chicago so I am planning on doing the exact same thing. It would be good to get a healthy discussion going on grading. I know it wouldn't be the first, but any information from experienced people would be great.

Thank you.
Reference URL's