If you don't want to see what you consider to be lowball offers than set an auto-decline percentage for Best Offers. I have been on both sides of this (buyer and seller), so I know it can be frustrating when you see an offer come in and get excited only to find out that it's way below what you were hoping. You shouldn't let it annoy you unless the buyer sends a note that harasses you in some way. Just respond with a counter-offer that you are ok with and see where it goes. If the buyer accepts, then it's sold. If the buyer counters with another lowball offer, then reject or counter again. I find it funny how many people get annoyed by negotiating, yet they are insistent on listing with best offer option without auto-decline.
Here are some examples where sub-50% might be expected:
1) Seller has an item listed for $100. The last ones that sold all sold for $20-$35 each, however the seller put the extremely high price simply because no one else has one listed on eBay (or just because they want to).
2) An item has never sold on eBay and there are no others up for sale. A seller wants to put as high a price as possible, and a buyer wants to pay as low a price as possible.
3) Buy It Now listing for $100 with best offer, while several other sellers have the same item for $45-50. Person takes a chance offering $40, knowing that they will either get a deal or can buy it from someone else for $45.
4) Anything listed at book value or higher, that isn't of a hot player.
Personally, I have made a best offer of $50 on a card listed for over $200, and the seller accepted without even countering. There is another seller that I know who sells the certain cards on eBay and lists them for $20 each, but will regularly accept $4-$5 each if you are buying multiples. So sub-50% offers are accepted more often than you might think.
What I find really frustrating are sellers who list items with Best Offer option, but won't make counter offers or simply decline all offers unless they are at full price. For example, I made an offer of $25 for a card listed for $35 and the seller simply declined; so I sent another offer of $27.50 (shipping was $2.50, so it made it an even $30), and again they simply declined. Finally I caved and offered $30, as the last sales for the card were $20-$30, and I didn't want to pay more than that. Guess what the seller simply declined again, without countering and now I am out of offers so the only choice I have is to buy it at $35. What is the point of having a Best Offer option if you are only going to decline offers and not try and negotiate?
Here are some examples where sub-50% might be expected:
1) Seller has an item listed for $100. The last ones that sold all sold for $20-$35 each, however the seller put the extremely high price simply because no one else has one listed on eBay (or just because they want to).
2) An item has never sold on eBay and there are no others up for sale. A seller wants to put as high a price as possible, and a buyer wants to pay as low a price as possible.
3) Buy It Now listing for $100 with best offer, while several other sellers have the same item for $45-50. Person takes a chance offering $40, knowing that they will either get a deal or can buy it from someone else for $45.
4) Anything listed at book value or higher, that isn't of a hot player.
Personally, I have made a best offer of $50 on a card listed for over $200, and the seller accepted without even countering. There is another seller that I know who sells the certain cards on eBay and lists them for $20 each, but will regularly accept $4-$5 each if you are buying multiples. So sub-50% offers are accepted more often than you might think.
What I find really frustrating are sellers who list items with Best Offer option, but won't make counter offers or simply decline all offers unless they are at full price. For example, I made an offer of $25 for a card listed for $35 and the seller simply declined; so I sent another offer of $27.50 (shipping was $2.50, so it made it an even $30), and again they simply declined. Finally I caved and offered $30, as the last sales for the card were $20-$30, and I didn't want to pay more than that. Guess what the seller simply declined again, without countering and now I am out of offers so the only choice I have is to buy it at $35. What is the point of having a Best Offer option if you are only going to decline offers and not try and negotiate?
Collecting John Stockton, Karl Malone, Ivan Rodriguez, Gary Carter & UF player rookie year cards. Plus Jedd Gyorko rookie and prospect cards.
Jedd Gyorko 2010-2013: Have 329/419 including 1/1s
Wantlist: http://sites.google.com/site/sportscardsite/set-needs/
Jedd Gyorko 2010-2013: Have 329/419 including 1/1s
Wantlist: http://sites.google.com/site/sportscardsite/set-needs/
