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Was wondering about acceptable grades
#1

Was wondering about acceptable grades
I have been looking through all my graded cards and I came up with a question for everyone. But first, a little background. On Monday I received my latest submission back from Beckett. The grades on the vintage cards included in my submission ranged from 4 to 7.5. My original intention was not to put any cards in my PC graded under 6. But I got looking at some of the 5's and 5.5's I hadn't put in ebay yet and came to the conclusion I could accept 5 and 5.5 grades. And yes like a dummy I sold a Mantle and Berra both graded 5's. But oh well, those two players I would really like slightly higher grades. So my question to the all of you is: What is the lowest acceptable grade for you to keep in your personal collections????? I am going to include scams of a 1960 Topps Ken Hunt card that is graded a 5.5.

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#2

RE: Was wondering about acceptable grades
It depends on who the person is and what the grade is.
Any Mantle holds its value.
For most cards and sets I want a 6 until the 1970s, then I want a 7 until 1975, after which I want an 8. Going into 1979 and after, minimum of 9.

This is basically what I would take....

1952- minimum PSA 2 prefer at least PSA 3.
1953- prefer at least PSA 3
1954 to 1956- prefer at least PSA 4
1957- minimum PSA 4 prefer at least PSA 6.
1958-1968 prefer PSA 6
1969-1974- prefer PSA 7
1975-1977- prefer PSA 8
1978-present- prefer PSA 9 minimum
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#3

RE: Was wondering about acceptable grades
I really have no minimum grade for my pc. I have a richie ashburn graded 1 but I found it so cheap I had to take it and decided to keep it.
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Thanks to Jbel4331 for my sig!!!!

Collecting 1964 Topps Venezuelan(completed),Andres Galarraga, Cal Ripken Jr, Miguel Cabrera, Bobby Abreu, Phillies, Venezuelan players and players from my sig. Also all Topps sets from the 80s, 90s, 2000s, 2010s
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#4

RE: Was wondering about acceptable grades
I go for at least 3's, I normally can find them crease free and not completely off-center. so that leaves me with a good looking card without paying top dollar
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#5

RE: Was wondering about acceptable grades
I have no requirements either. I'd rather have a card in poor condition than not have it at all.
I collect Hall of Fame baseball player cards and cards of current and retired superstars.



My Huge Wantlist: http://www.zeprock.com/WantList.html
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#6

RE: Was wondering about acceptable grades
It depends on what your specific likes and goals are . . . My personal target is 7 or better for any sets from 1967 - 1975. In my Yaz registry I would like to stay above 7 in the earlier years and 8 or above in later years but with some cards that's just not possible.

I also collect 1966 Topps Venezuelans which are hard to find in EX or better. With 202 1966 Venezuelans in my Registry, the combined GPA is 4.64 or just slightly better than VGEX+. If cards are pre-war, I'll settle for 1.5 if I really want the card.
Twitter: @Coimbre21 - Collecting Carl Yastrzemski Topps, Jimmie Foxx, 1966 Topps Venezuelan, 2010 Topps Tribute HOF Relics & Autos, L.A. Rams Autos

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#7

RE: Was wondering about acceptable grades
I've just started getting backin the hobby, I have a psa 5 mantle, looks way better... I did just buy 1964 topps giants mantle, and that was a psa 4, however I only gave 20 bucks for it.. For me personally It depends on who the player is and what the asking price is.... I just picked up a Ernie banks, 1960 topps for 50 bucks... Psa 8... How ever it is a psa 8(oc)....

What does people think about the qualifiers..? Good? Bad? Doesn't bother them?
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#8

RE: Was wondering about acceptable grades
I think it matters on qualifiers what your intent and the price is.
If you are getting a Gaylord Perry oc and you have all other stars with no qualifiers and its part of a complete set, I can't see how it hurts the value of the set.
But if you have a '75 Brett with a qualifier, its value is probably diminished some.
In other words, if its part of a set, it should be okay.
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#9

RE: Was wondering about acceptable grades
For me, the older the card the lower the grade I would accept. For T206's I'll accept as low as a 2. Anything from 1950's on I try to get at least a 6. It also depends on the value of the card and the price you pay for a lower grade. I have guidelines that I try to stick to, no hard and fast rules.
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