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What "declared value" should I use?
10-29-2012, 06:12 PM
Post: #1
What "declared value" should I use?
Hi, I'm new to the grading process, and I'm sure this comes up often, but I would be grateful to anyone who can give me advice on the topic. I recently acquired a complete 1984 topps tiffany set, and I want to have the Don Mattingly and Darryl Strawberry cards graded, but I don't know what to enter for declared value. Is it simply the beckett price value or is it different? You see all of these increase the cost of the process--getting the beckett price costs money, and the higher the declared value, the higher the cost. I want to keep the cost down so that it doesn't erase the benefit of having the cards graded in the first place. I expect both cards will be a 9...what value should I enter?

Also, I picked Mattingly and Strawberry because I'm assuming that they will be the most valuable...does anyone suggest any other cards from that set that would be worth having graded?

Thanks!
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10-29-2012, 06:46 PM
Post: #2
RE: What "declared value" should I use?
Go with just a lil more than your cost of replacing it or full book value.
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10-29-2012, 10:55 PM
Post: #3
RE: What "declared value" should I use?
The increase in insurance cost is for every $1000... so there shouldn't be an issue unless you're deciding between numbers below and above a break point. Always choose the amount at the high range of the break point... i.e. Insure it for $1000 for anything between $1-$1000 or $2000 for anything between $1001-$2000. Only complication comes when you mess with the $4000 number since I believe that is the cutoff where they start to ship by Registered Mail.

For the 1984 Topps Tiffany Mattingly/Strawberry, I'd just put $1000.

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1997 Donruss Preferred Precious Metals
1997 Topps Gallery Gallery of Heroes
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