[y2hood]

I just ordered a jeweler's loop. I've been doing some spring cleaning in the man cave and some of these National Treasure's cards that have grades below 7 on the surfaces have me fuming again. I can't see the issues. THEN it doesn't help that the cases have some scratches (when you get them back most times) so you can't tell if it's a card or a holder blemish.

I have 6 cards sitting in front of me I'm about to bust out of cases and resubmit after wiping down. One is a 1/1 and the rest are #'d less than 25 or 10. A few of them got blue stripped because on one sub I went with minimum grades.

Sorry to necro post but did not want to start a new thread for an existing topic.

[jeffv96masters]

A few suggestions on what to look for on NT.

Being white those NT cards are prone to both printers dots and dirt. They also have a lot of built in Topps production headaches such as indents, surface scratches, foil headaches, printing ink issues, and many other issues.

Look for missing foil, splotches, printer ink spillover, print dots, dirt, and scratches of course.

Like Topps Sterling or UD Premier a Gem slabbed NT card is going to be hard to come by . I'd say the majority will be in silver slabs. Get a Gem or rare Pristine in NT and I'd sit on that card until the market realizes how difficult they are to gem.

FYI- If your not using latex gloves or white archival museum gloves I'd suggest buying some they are relatively cheap to buy. Use them when doing your orders to prevent additional surface related headaches.

Jeff

[y2hood]

My loupe came in. Time to start examining everything like I'm a kid with a new toy

[cowboy1501]

I am a smoker & I smoke in my home & been collecting cards for years but I am new to having them graded. I have had two cards graded & on both of them the surface sub grade has been a pristine 10 & I have never used canned air or anything to "Clean" the card surface. However when I open a box or pack of cards I use an exacto knife to open them after very gently making sure that EVERY card is safe as to not trim it & I wear gloves to prevent ANY fingerprints on the surface. All the surface sub grade is, is well the original gloss of the card(s) nothing more or less. My scanner is not working the right way so I can't scan my cards once they're graded but the sub grades for my current order is as follows: Centering = 9.5, Surface = 10, Corners = 9, Edges = 9.5 for an overall grade of 9.5. I bought my card for my current order on ebay & it is the 2012 Topps Andrew Luck rookie short print (scrambling pose) & my other card is a 2010 Topps Chrome Red Refractors Adrian Peterson with sub grades of: Centering = 8, Corners = 9, Surface = 10,Edges = 9.5 for an overall grade of 8.5.

[patrick54]

(04-07-2013 06:50 PM)jeffv96masters Wrote:   A few suggestions on what to look for on NT.

Being white those NT cards are prone to both printers dots and dirt. They also have a lot of built in Topps production headaches such as indents, surface scratches, foil headaches, printing ink issues, and many other issues.

Look for missing foil, splotches, printer ink spillover, print dots, dirt, and scratches of course.

Like Topps Sterling or UD Premier a Gem slabbed NT card is going to be hard to come by . I'd say the majority will be in silver slabs. Get a Gem or rare Pristine in NT and I'd sit on that card until the market realizes how difficult they are to gem.

FYI- If your not using latex gloves or white archival museum gloves I'd suggest buying some they are relatively cheap to buy. Use them when doing your orders to prevent additional surface related headaches.

Jeff

I agree with you. I just graded 2 cases of the National treasures baseball that went straight to Card Savers I's. I got a lot of 9'5's and about the same amount in 9's. A few did come back lower mainly surface grades. I don't see many of these grading at 9.5 and after they're handled probably not to many 9's. I'm thinking about pulling mine from ebay and sitting on them for a while. Here is a few that I got back.