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+--- Thread: Question about grading. (/thread-1577018.html)
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Question about grading. - rpeterson369 - 08-19-2015
So I've been collecting for many years, but am just starting to dabble with graded cards. My question is in regards to Beckett's pricing on graded cards when it comes to autos. Now days I see Beckett grades not only the card but the auto on the card as well. When looking up a card in the price guide it looks like the pricing is just listed by the card grades. Am I missing anything or does the auto grade not really factor in? Obviously a 9.5/10 is better than a 9.5/9, but I didn't see a separation in the price guide. I'm guessing I'm missing something here
RE: Question about grading. - jonathani - 08-19-2015
I look at it as personal preference. I don't let the auto grade affect cards I buy at shows, but if I have to choose a 10 or a 9, the 10 gets my money as long as the seller hasn't put some crazy premium on the fact that a grown man knows how to spell his name.
RE: Question about grading. - Nintari - 08-19-2015
I personally don't agree with grading the autograph. Other than making sure it's authentically signed by the player/person, it should not have a separate value attached.
RE: Question about grading. - Hofcollector - 08-19-2015
It sounds ridiculous to say but auto grades do matter to the majority of collectors, particularly when you are dealing with higher end cards. To answer the original question, Beckett's graded card pricing is rarely ever close to accurate. This is one thing I wish they'd change or pay more attention to. The kicker is they've printed a graded card magazine for the last few years and at release it doesnt match their online pricing. They spend 6 months gathering info for the magazine and by the time it's released, all pricing has changed 10 times.
RE: Question about grading. - Nintari - 08-19-2015
(08-19-2015, 02:53 PM)Hofcollector Wrote: It sounds ridiculous to say but auto grades do matter to the majority of collectors, particularly when you are dealing with higher end cards. To answer the original question, Beckett's graded card pricing is rarely ever close to accurate. This is one thing I wish they'd change or pay more attention to. The kicker is they've printed a graded card magazine for the last few years and at release it doesnt match their online pricing. They spend 6 months gathering info for the magazine and by the time it's released, all pricing has changed 10 times.
Right but shouldn't the value of the autograph be determined by the person looking to buy it? That's my issue. Sharp corners, centered pictures, color depth etc, those aren't subjective in nature but an autograph's worth is.
RE: Question about grading. - rpeterson369 - 08-19-2015
(08-19-2015, 02:53 PM)Hofcollector Wrote: It sounds ridiculous to say but auto grades do matter to the majority of collectors, particularly when you are dealing with higher end cards. To answer the original question, Beckett's graded card pricing is rarely ever close to accurate. This is one thing I wish they'd change or pay more attention to. The kicker is they've printed a graded card magazine for the last few years and at release it doesnt match their online pricing. They spend 6 months gathering info for the magazine and by the time it's released, all pricing has changed 10 times.
Thanks for the input. Is there like a easy formula to use when buying/selling? Like a 1.5x BV or is it just what you think it's worth? For example a card that's BV is $250 and graded 9.5 BV is listed at $300....if it's a 9.5/10 would you value it over the $300 price. I know I sound dumb, but I'm new to the graded part of the hobby. Going forward I'd like to consolidate and pick up graded cards and was just looking for some insight.
RE: Question about grading. - Hofcollector - 08-19-2015
(08-19-2015, 03:16 PM)rpeterson369 Wrote: Thanks for the input. Is there like a easy formula to use when buying/selling? Like a 1.5x BV or is it just what you think it's worth? For example a card that's BV is $250 and graded 9.5 BV is listed at $300....if it's a 9.5/10 would you value it over the $300 price. I know I sound dumb, but I'm new to the graded part of the hobby. Going forward I'd like to consolidate and pick up graded cards and was just looking for some insight.
You don't sound dumb at all. There is absolutely no formula to figuring out a graded cards value. It's different for every card and largely depends on a cards desirability, print run and population report of said graded card (lower print runs = less 9.5's and 10's= larger premiums). When you get to desirable to extremely sought after cards with extremely small print runs all bets are off for pricing because there is going to be so few if any flawless cards. If your going to be dipping into the Ebay market you can check all previous sales and if there's enough sold recently, you should be able to get a general idea of what to pay there. Just remember, a lot of sellers on there are willing to drop their pants for a sale and a few previous sales may not be an accurate current market value. Graded cards rise and fall in value like stocks and what sells for $150 on Monday may sell for $200 on Tuesday.
(08-19-2015, 03:09 PM)Nintari Wrote: Right but shouldn't the value of the autograph be determined by the person looking to buy it? That's my issue. Sharp corners, centered pictures, color depth etc, those aren't subjective in nature but an autograph's worth is.
I understand what your saying but the majority of collectors (and sellers) want a predetermined grading scale for an auto so there isn't any room for interpretation. Leaving an auto ungraded leaves the cards value undetermined and thus, likely open to scrutiny and an inevitable price negotiation. Basically like arguing over an ungraded cards condition. What's a 7 to you may be a 6 to someone else and no seller wants that, or really any collector either. While the system is flawed and questionable at times it is the accepted standard and makes things cut and dry (most of the time). The auto grade is the easiest to accept because they are really only judging the image or quality of marker. They take into account sigs get sloppy after 500 and no 2 sigs are exactly alike. So long as the individual signs with a fresh sharpie and keeps constant pressure while signing, you should be getting a 10.
RE: Question about grading. - Nintari - 08-19-2015
(08-19-2015, 04:31 PM)Hofcollector Wrote: I understand what your saying but the majority of collectors (and sellers) want a predetermined grading scale for an auto so there isn't any room for interpretation. Leaving an auto ungraded leaves the cards value undetermined and thus, likely open to scrutiny and an inevitable price negotiation. Basically like arguing over an ungraded cards condition. What's a 7 to you may be a 6 to someone else and no seller wants that, or really any collector either. While the system is flawed and questionable at times it is the accepted standard and makes things cut and dry (most of the time). The auto grade is the easiest to accept because they are really only judging the image or quality of marker. They take into account sigs get sloppy after 500 and no 2 sigs are exactly alike. So long as the individual signs with a fresh sharpie and keeps constant pressure while signing, you should be getting a 10.
Well, it may be a necessary evil these days but I'll tell you what... you give me an authenticated Willie Mays autographed ball with a dull, out of focused, smudged signature and I'll be one satisfied collector lol
RE: Question about grading. - Hofcollector - 08-19-2015
(08-19-2015, 05:22 PM)Nintari Wrote: Well, it may be a necessary evil these days but I'll tell you what... you give me an authenticated Willie Mays autographed ball with a dull, out of focused, smudged signature and I'll be one satisfied collector lol
That's a big difference though. Vintage signed baseball's, even faded ones, go for big bucks. In fact, the older the better. When someone buys a Mays auto on a modern card it's expected to be bold, beautiful and new. Your paying good money for it and it should be.
RE: Question about grading. - Nintari - 08-19-2015
(08-19-2015, 05:42 PM)Hofcollector Wrote: That's a big difference though. Vintage signed baseball's, even faded ones, go for big bucks. In fact, the older the better. When someone buys a Mays auto on a modern card it's expected to be bold, beautiful and new. Your paying good money for it and it should be.
Yeah, I forgot about that. I do agree that pulling a modern card with a newer autograph should be high quality. I still don't think I would mind though. I mean, it's Willie Freakin' Mays haha