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(02-24-2011 03:09 PM)jywilli69 Wrote: Price Guide Percentage by Grade
Is there anyway for Beckett to incorporate GEM-MT and Pristine into Price Guide Percentage by Grade.
I would like to see it included in the Beckets, that way I can get a better Idea of what GemMt or Pristine is worth. Thank you for your time in advance.
(02-22-2011 07:37 PM)mvandall Wrote: Has Beckett ever considered doing a complete guide to supercollecting? What I mean by that is, a book with everything ever issued for a certain player. I'm a griffey collector and would love to have something like this.
(02-26-2011 02:26 PM)jeshuagray1977 Wrote: I seem to have landed a very special pack of cards. Are the Bowman Chrome Draft Printing Plates metal or cardboard?
(02-23-2011 08:55 PM)dandd299 Wrote: Am I dumb and can't seem to use the new OPG or has the Kelloggs cards, like the 1970 version, been deleted from the new OPG?
(02-22-2011 04:21 PM)bobstuartsr Wrote: What happened to the listings for 1948 Leaf baseball?
(03-01-2011 02:47 PM)Grandpa_Bambu Wrote: Hi...
I was wondering if you know the answer to this conundrum...
On the Roberto Alomar 1988 Topps Traded #4T (non Tiffany) there are two asterisks in the bottom left-hand corner on the back of the card... I also have a few ‘Tiffany’ versions of this card and they do not have the two asterisks in the bottom left-hand corner on the back of the card... I was wondering if you know the meaning of the two asterisks on the non-Tiffany card. Is it to differentiate between the Tiffany and non-Tiffany cards?
One person whom I have discussed this with suggests that Topps used the asterisks as an indicator for the printer as to which card was for what process to eliminate possible over-production... However, on my 1988 Roberto Alomar Fleer Update #U-122, there are no distinguishable 'indicator' marks on any of the 'Glossy' or 'non-Glossy' cards...
It doesn't make sense to me that the marks are for the printer's FYI when the printer is the 'one' who prints the cards... If you know what I mean... If Topps wanted lets say, 20000 cards with the 'Tiffany' process, then print that amount off and coat them with the gloss finish. Then print off the 'regular' issue cards... IDK, that just my .02...
If you could shed some light on this for me I'd appreciate it...
(01-31-2011 03:30 PM)animie67 Wrote: How can you tell the difference between the refractors? I know the regular refractors just say refractors but do the super or x-fractors actually say super or x or do they just look different?
(01-14-2011 09:18 AM)jonathani Wrote:
Ditto. I have some minor team sets I would like to put out there and others I would like to fine. The minor sets I have been able to list are getting pretty well picked-through, and I would love to put up some more.
(01-20-2011 05:16 PM)jerzcollal563 Wrote: Do you think 2009 U.D. baseball U.S.A. auto cards worth trading for? Was 2009 the last year baseball relavant?
(10-21-2010 04:18 PM)gulfvet90 Wrote: Hey Chris,
A couple of days ago I asked a topic to the general public on the best way to organize a collection. I have over 100,000 cards..I'm interested on your thoughts...
(11-28-2010 07:19 PM)tds2 Wrote: How do I find out what the errors were on the 1991 Topps cards for Moises Alou and Brady Anderson? The site shows that the original cards were error cards, and that corrected cards were issued, but I have no way of knowing if I have the error cards or the original cards. The site gives only the following information:
Card: 1991 Topps #526A Moises Alou ERR
Card: 1991 Topps #526B Moises Alou COR
Card: 1991 Topps #97A Brady Anderson ERR
Card: 1991 Topps #97B Brady Anderson COR