Beckett Grading Services Guide To Pregrading

Many of us know the frustration of centering woes. If the card comes out off-center, there is absolutely nothing we can do about it.

After seeing enough cards, most collectors can judge centering quite accurately by the naked eye. A border that is just slightly less than even on both sides is likely 55/45. If one border is twice the size of the other, that is a 65/35 card. A 60/40 card is in between these two, while the exact measurements below 65/35 are much less distinct. To be absolutely precise, let's discuss one method of measurement.

There are a handful of tools on the market to quickly judge a card's centering, but the most common method uses a ruler and calculator. It doesn't matter whether you measure in picas, decimals, points or any other scale, as long as you use a very finely marked ruler. Measure both sides of a border, and write the numbers down. Let's say the left side measured 12 and the right side measured 5. Add the numbers together (for a total of 17), and divide either of the first two measurements by this total. In the sample case, 12 divided by 17 equals approximately 0.70. The left-right centering on this card is therefore 70/30. If the top-bottom centering is also 70/30, this card would receive a centering sub-grade of 6. One other note on centering is to be sure to look for diamond cutting or miscuts. Diamond cutting is when the image of the card is tilted to varying degrees. A miscut is when the cutting of the card was not straight. For example, if all four sides were measured, three sides might measure up perfectly, while the fourth side was slightly smaller. Either of these problems will typically hold the centering grade to less than an 8.

Back to Top

Corners

Before you submit in your cards to BGS for grading, please take a look at the explanations below in order to get a better idea of what grades your cards will receive.

First, let's look at the corners.

If you see one "noticeable" corner on the front of the card, your card will average an 8-8.5 grade on its corners. "Noticeable" is defined as "an obviously white or dinged corner." If you see two "noticeable" corners on the front, your corner grade would be in the 7-7.5 range, and down from there.

Corners on the back with "touches" will weigh much less than the same flaws on the front of the card. Look closely at the corners, as the BGS graders will be using at least a 12X magnifier during the grading process.

Back to Top

Edges

Unless heavily damaged, edges are often treated as the least of concern. In truth, the edges reveal more than just a grade - they are usually the key area in determining trimming or other alterations.

When grading edges, both the front and back of the card are important. The edges tell us how well the card was cut at the factory. Some cards are on superior stock and are cut with sharp, precise blades. Other cards are not as fortunate.

Pre-1990 O-Pee-Chee cards, as well as the early years of Topps Tiffany sets, were not cut with a standard blade. Instead, a wire was used. The result is that clean-cut cards from these sets are exceedingly scarce.

Other sets show a wide variety of cutting quality. Upper Deck's first set in 1989 is one that runs the gamut from clean, sharp edges to ragged, chipped edges. Whether the sheet was cut from the front or the back can be determined by the edge chipping. Look for buildup along the edges, which will appear as a ridge of extra cardboard along the sides and will lower the edges to a 7 or 8. Unfortunately, nothing can be done when cards were cut poorly at the factory.

The other category of edge wear is actual after-market damage. This includes the chipping and notching that occurs after the card has been cut and packaged. This is weighted more heavily in determining edge grades than factory problems. Any large chip or notch in an edge can lower the grade proportionately. Sets printed on such soft card stock as 1970s and 1980s Topps are especially susceptible to light chipping all along the edges. To earn Mint or better grades, these edges must be clean and sharp.

Finally, edges can also be the collector's best friend when it comes to tampering detection. In particular, if a card with dark borders seems a bit too clean, tilt the card and look directly at the edges themselves. Using a 10-20X loupe is the best way to do this.

When the edges or corners have been re-colored, there is almost always ink bleed-through. If the white edges have spots of ink, beware. Secondly, examine the actual cut of the edges. Is one unusually sharp? Are all of the edges nicer than you have seen on that set before? Is the edge wavy or does it taper off near the corners? Does the card measure unusually short one or both ways? These can all be signs of tampered edges.

Another common technique is beveling, which shaves off just a fraction of one side of the edge. This leaves the length of the card intact, while scraping off the side that was chipped. Comparing the edges of common cards from the same set to the edges of the card in question is a good idea. Keep a close eye on those edges - they may tell you more than you expected.

Back to Top

Surface

It cannot be overstated how critical it is to examine the front and back surfaces closely before submitting cards.

When gathering a group of cards to submit, many people merely glance at the surface. In reality, most surface flaws are hidden at first glance. It is upon closer scrutiny that creases, print dots and stains become obvious. Often, we believe that pulling a card fresh from a pack or factory set means that there will be no major surface problems. On the contrary, never assume that the surface is free of defects.

The best way to examine the surface is to inspect the cards without a holder and hold them close to a bright light source. A simple 75-watt desk lamp works well. It is best to use only the naked eye, rotating the card in your hand to catch all of the angles in the light. You might be amazed to find creases leap to life that you may have overlooked. It's typically not necessary to use a magnifying loupe.

There are many forms of surface damage. Creases are heavy paper wrinkles that may or may not go all the way through from front to back. A single crease can be crippling to a card's grade. Even the smallest crease will usually lower the surface grade to a 4 or less, but typical creases will hold the surface to a 1 or 2.

The most commonly submitted card to BGS, Ken Griffey Jr.'s 1989 Upper Deck is notorious for factory creases. In particular, look at the back of the card, in the middle of both the right and left sides. Also, be aware that heavy machine indentations are common on these cards. They're found at the bottom right on the back.

Paper flaws are wrinkles that are a lighter version of a crease. Topps cards from the mid-'70s were susceptible to very light wrinkles on the front due to the paper stock used. Even modern cards are not immune to this problem. Fleer Focus cards often have wrinkles on the player photo. Print dots/streaks are more obvious, and are normally spots of stray ink. However, some print dots are the result of damage to the photo negatives. Because it is an assumed risk in any printing process, every card can theoretically have print dots.

In this era of UV-coated, foil-enhanced, ultra-glossy card stock, one of the peskiest problems is that of scratches. While high gloss may lend itself to aesthetically appealing photographs, if you open a pack of Flair Showcase or Topps Gold Label, it's obvious that just looking at these cards wrong might scratch them. Again, use a good light and rotate the card under it to reveal if there are any scratches. It's rare to receive a surface grade higher than an 8 if scratches are present. On some cards, such as the 1993 SP Derek Jeter , it's not unusual for the foil surface to be so terribly scuffed that it receives a 5 or 6. Blisters or pockmarks are other flaws especially associated with modern cards. Registration (proper alignment of the photographs) can affect cards of any era.

Back to Top

Packing

So you've carefully selected the cards you plan to submit. You've scrutinized them for any weaknesses, and you feel pretty good about sending them in for grading. The submission form is filled out correctly, and everything is all set, right? Wrong!

Perhaps the most overlooked aspect of submitting cards for professional grading is how they are packaged. Your cards may be Gem Mint quality, but if shipped poorly, they can easily be damaged in transit.

The first step is selecting the holder. BGS has received cards wrapped in napkins, rubber banded inside a folded piece of paper, sent raw in a plain envelope and mailed in folded nine-pocket sheets. Screwdowns are an absolute no-no. Card corners can slide out of the holder and bend over completely. It's no fun to get cards back ungraded because they were submitted in screwdown holders. Any form of snap case (team set boxes, snap-tites, mini snap-tites, etc.) is also risky. These are easily broken or cracked during a rough ride in the mailbag.

Top loaders are the most popular choice, but even these have their share of problems. If the card is not in a penny sleeve, it can rattle around and nick corners and edges. A tight top loader can scratch the surface of sensitive cards. When the card is placed in a penny sleeve and then inside a top loader, there is still a great risk of the card sliding out slightly. Just because you pack them right side up does not mean they will stay that way during the shipping process. Taping the top of the holders solves this problem somewhat, but it also can result in the cards sticking to the tape itself, risking surface damage.

The safest way to package your order is a combination of penny sleeves and oversized, (vintage) semi-rigid holders (such as the Card Saver I). To guard against nicking a corner on a tight penny sleeve, cut off a very small piece of one of the top corners. You may also try to peel or slice the edge of the seal itself, about one-fourth inch at the top right or left edge. This allows the card to be started into the sleeve at an angle that avoids corner damage. Once in the penny sleeve, place this in the semi-rigid holder. You may group these together into stacks of 25 or less, sandwich them between two pieces of sturdy cardboard, and tape the cardboard together. Then pack the cards towards the center of a box and fill packing material around them until they are snug.

Sound like a lot of work? It certainly is. But escaping the heartbreak of learning your Mint cards are now Excellent because of transit damage is worth the extra 10 minutes of packing time.